Blogs

The pressure/temperature relief valve 
This valve located on the side or top of heaters prevents it from doing one thing, blowing up from pressure. A spring inside allows bypass when the limit of either is reached. In many cases you will find one with a small drip instead of full release. Manuals will explain correct installation and discharge pipe requirements. This valve should never be capped off or restricted in any way. These valves do have a manual lever to relieve pressure or occasionally test for function, which can be a good idea until they age and the rubber seal won't seat anymore. The end result is a constant leak, and a replacement valve may be needed.

Draining your water heater annually  
At the base of the water heater is a drain or faucet. Many less expensive heaters come with a cheap plastic one, and a good idea would be to replace it with a metal or brass one when the new heater goes in. Heat will eventually degrade the valve and when you do go to open it up; you could find it breaks off instead. A regular garden hose will screw to the ends of all valves for draining.

Draining the sediment or trash out of the bottom of the heater will keep the tank clean and the trash out. A dirty tank will corrode quicker from mineral deposits resting at the base of the tank. People on well water especially should ensure they not only clean the tank but have a good filter system in place before the heater as well. Remember, you don't have to drain the whole tank, just enough to flush out any impurities. If your water is clean when you drain then you should be good. If you open the valve and nothing comes out, you may have a clogged valve from too much debris.

Anode Rod Replacement    
Water heaters have a rod made of zinc installed in them as well. This rod serves as a sacrificial metal, and will be the source of corrosion before any other metal. A good reference is a boat motor. Anyone who owns a boat will know that zinc plates have been installed on the out drive to prevent corrosion of the casing. You should be able to go online and order a new rod, but check with your manufacturer to see if access and replacement is available.

Service Disconnect 
It would stink if you ever did experience a water heater failure and when you go to shut off the water you realize there is no way to shut it off, and you have to shut off the entire home!

All water heaters should have a valve installed prior to the supply side to shut off water. They also should have an electrical service disconnect installed close by as well. Many that don't will either be in a garage where the electrical breaker is close by or it was never require so the previous installer never did it. Electrical wiring should also be safe from damage or installed in a protective conduit to prevent damage.

For gas heaters, a safety shut off valve should always be besides the heater of the gas line.

Dielectric Unions  
All water pipe connections to the tank are steel. Most household plumbing is copper. Mix the two together and you create a phenomenon called dissimilar metal corrosion. Some metals just don't mix and corrosion is the end result. Adding warmer water to the mix amplifies the situation. TO eliminate this problem there are several items you can install to keep metals from contacting. This includes connections made of plastic, brass (which does not corrode when inserted between the 2) or specialty unions which also prevent this from happening. Overlooking this problem could result in leaks or damage to the pipe connections. Some can be severe enough that due to the corroded tank connection, the water heater must be replaced, even if the heater itself is in good working order.